Diana's trip to the Western Sahara refugee camps

Friday 28th We had a very lazy morning having the usual rounds of tea and an ever expanding game of catch as more and more children emerged from their houses.  Buses for the sand dune trip left more or less on time, give or take 30 mins and sped off with the usual escort. After several miles we veered off the tarmac and bumped across the stones and gravel towards an unknown destination. One of the buses didn't make it as it started leaking something so their passengers were redistributed among the remaining three- very crowded by now so hoped tyres didn't burst! We stopped literally in the middle of nowhere to see a huge tent being erected in front of a perfectly golden sand dune and like a bunch of school kids we leapt off the bus and ran up it!  Went for a short walk to appreciate the vast landscape in front of us and to try to comprehend how people ever manage to cross such an inhospitable land. Apart from the lack of any shelter or vegetation the wi...

Thursday 27th I felt I could risk a boiled egg and banana for breakfast which was most welcome before we went over to Fatemalu’s to collect the others. Today is the 49th anniversary of the Sarawi Arab Democratic Republic, when the camps were first created - almost 50 years of exile in the desert from their homeland! Apparently a whole day of activities are planned with speeches, parades and other cultural events so we were keen to not miss it. We arrived to find masses of mainly women and children watching the army band, then speeches and a huge parade with school groups, football teams, young dancers etc from the different camps. Noisy, chaotic and massively colourful.  Wandered back for lunch, hoping for a siesta, but Mohammed the youngest child was going to play football so we went to watch. Lovely AstroTurf pitch and the boys had decent kit in the IITIHAD “ stadium”, but we only got to see a training session!  Mohammed’s big ...

Wednesday 26th Buses for the trip to cultural projects was scheduled for 9.00 so we and lots of others correctly interpreted this as 10.00 and arrived accordingly. It was a bit like a magical mystery tour as no one had any idea where we were going. Turns out it was Boujdour, the smallest camp and we had a great morning going to a local primary school where we saw some fantastic art work and watched a group of kids involved in a Sandblast Arts project sing and dance for us.  Then a tour of the impressive women's centre where they teach women about child birth, health and nutrition as well as holding conferences and printing their own newsletters.  After that we saw a film and media training school and a museum of the history of the Sarawi people so all in all a fascinating insight into the culture.  Back at Fatumatu's another delicious meal with even home made apple cake - their hospitality is very humbling. Everyone apart fr...

Tuesday 25th Alex left at 6.30 to get breakfast,and then bus to the start of the marathon, followed by Mel, Andy, David and I going to the start of the half marathon and the others later on for 10k and 5k. At the start of our race there was lots of singing, chanting and ululating and some great photo opportunities.  Only 6 people were walking (at this point) so we were soon left behind but the route was very obvious and marked with various white painted objects (tires, bottles, rocks etc) . Great reception as we passed the houses with children running round us and shouts of “hola” and “ tiene caramelos?” Reasonably cool at the start and the terrain was mostly a stony track but there were a few sand dunes which were hard work. Not long after we'd started we were passed by the first marathon runner ( who actually came third) but everyone very spread out.  By the 10k start point Mel was feeling a bit tired so took a rest...

Monday 24th Slept like a log and got up 7.30, for guess what!? Breakfast and then walk over to cultural centre for 9.30 as instructed - no sign of buses but gradually people started gathering. Had some good conversations with people whilst we waited. Eventually I small bus turned up so we got on and waited and waited, then men in suits came out of the “protocol” , presumably having had a meeting and we waited some more. 3 more buses arrived plus a couple of police jeeps and then we were off! The road is tarmacced and in very good condition and once away from the rubbish strewn camps quickly becomes fairly flat desert. Not a tree, plant or animal in site. Our little convoy, led by the police jeep for security, passed near to the route for tomorrow's race and passed through Auserd camp. Lots of little shops, auto repairs, tires, goats, camels. Eventually arrived at El Aaiún camp where we got to see a school for women, donated by Sweden, where they learn sewing...

Sunday Feb 23rd Flight to Tindouf was another 21/2 hours and then the massive chaos of passport control, security and waiting for baggage. Lots of waiting around with military looking men trying to be officious and organising everyone and no-one knowing what the hell was going on. Finally left the airport on some buses at 6.00am. Headed first towards the town of Tindouf - couldn't see much as still dark but some big official buildings and some decent new houses. Then off into the desert which is mostly rubble, sand and rubbish! Dawn breaking was worth keeping awake for but think everyone nodded off a bit despite the very bumpy road.  Eventually the buses turned off down a track into the endless sprawl of Samara camp, the largest of the 5 camps. First impressions - abandoned cars, falling down ruins ( probably from the floods they had last year) some new buildings but most half completed, massive amounts of rubbish as there's nowhere for it to go, some original old tents. Very b...